When I was six

When I was six I wanted to be a ballerina. By the time I was eight I was fairly sure this plan wasn’t panning out. I began aspiring to be an \”Aquamaid\” at a resort called \”Aquarena Springs\” in my hometown of San Marcos: Aquamaids got to wear mermaid tails and feed milk bottles underwater … Read more

The balance and patience

The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding … if you’re out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don’t land on soft snow. It’s usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you’re tumbling underwater. Frederick Lenz

Everyone knows the phenomenon

Everyone knows the phenomenon of trying to hold your breath underwater – how at first it’s alright and you can handle it, and then as it gets closer and closer to the time when you must breathe, how urgent the need becomes, the lust and the hunger to breathe. And then the panic sets in … Read more

Maybe i would become

Maybe i would become a mermaid… i would live in the swirling blue-green currents, doing exotic underwater dances for the fish, kissed by sea anemones, caressed by seaweed shawls. I would have a doliphin friend. He would have merry eyes and thick flesh of a god. My fingernails would be tiny shells and my skin … Read more